The VinPro (SA)
Consultation Service publication "Guide for establishing a vineyard" provides
comprehensive guidelines for the development of young vines while "Wingerdbou in
Suid-Afrika", pp. 202 – 233 covers winter pruning of adult vines. A video
entitled "Wintersnoei" is also available from VinPro (SA) Consultation
Service.
Pre-pruning
, which involves pruning the shoots of trellised vines
30 – 40 cm from the base, is done to distribute labour more evenly and speed up
the final pruning process.
Clean pruning
entails the removal of all the shoots, except
the bearers, and should be done by well-trained labourers, since this influences
the most important aspects such as vine shape and number of
buds.
Final pruning
later in the season limits the bearer shoots
mostly to 2 buds.
Pre- and clean pruning
should
preferably only be applied to vigorously growing vines and early
cultivars.
Delay pruning if the soil and air are very dry to prevent drying out of
pruning wounds. Do not prune during rainfalls either, because free water is
conducive to fungal infections in pruning wounds.
Young vines in the vine
development stage should be pruned by the most experienced persons
seeing that each vine has to be judged individually in order to obtain optimum
shape. The tempo and method of vine development are determined by
vigour and trellis system
and are discussed
in full in the "Guides for establishing a vineyard".
The pruning system
must be adjusted to the
cultivar and location. Since most of the wine grape cultivars have basal buds
that are sufficiently fertile, pruning is done with 2 bud bearers (short cut).
Exceptions are less fertile cultivars such as Sultana, as well as infertile
locations where either the semi-long cut (4 – 6 buds) or the long cut (+ 8 buds)
is applicable. For each semi-long or long bearer a short bearer should always be
left in place to prevent build up of bearers.
In frost free regions as well as with
cultivars that set normally, final pruning may already take place at the end of
the month. In areas where frost occurs regularly, final pruning should be
undertaken much later in order to delay the budding of the bearer
buds.
In cultivars such as Hanepoot which are
susceptible to drooping or poor set, clean and final pruning should be
undertaken very late and as one action when the shoot tips have already started
budding.
Cultivars that are susceptible to delayed
budding
should also be clean
pruned and final pruned in one stage as late as
possible.
Regarding the number of bearers that are left
per vine, a standard recipe may be followed, namely an increase of one bearer in
the case of vigorous growth and a decrease of one bearer in the case of weak
growth, or by making use of 1 bud bearers instead of 2 bud
bearers.
When long bearers are used in addition to short
bearers in vigorously growing vines, the position of the long bearers on the
cordon should be changed annually so that the short bearers may become equally
strong.
In trellised vines the cordon arm should not be
twisted around the cordon wire during vine development, in order to prevent the
arm from being strangled as it becomes thicker. Simply attach the cordon arm at
its tip to the cordon wire.
In vines where short bearer arms (spurs) are
getting too long, an experienced pruner should cut a water shoot in a suitable
position to one bud at this stage, so that a new bearer may be developed to
replace the old one in due course of time.