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A Technical Guide for Wine Producers
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Wine In Wood And Wood In Wine
The use of oak in the vinification of flagship wines
Charl Theron, guest lecturer in Oenology, Tim Rypstra, professor in Wood Science and Jan Swart, director: Wood and Fibre Institute.
Nowadays oak comes in so many formats, quality and prices to meet different quality and price category requirements that the question is often raised about which factors should be considered by winemakers before deciding which products to purchase in which format. It is often a process of experimenation before reaching a final decision, but due to the cost implications it is necessary to take that decision as soon as possible. In this article reference is made to Marsanne and Durif cultivar wines that are often unknown in South Africa.
Various Australian winemakers were requested to elaborate on their experiences with the use of oak in the vinification of flagship wines.
All Saints Estate, Rutherglen, Victoria
Family Cellar Marsanne
25% New French oak is used and the remainder consists of second fill or older barrels of different sizes. Whole bunches are pressed, spontaneous fermentation is allowed and the malolactic fermentation (MLF) occurs in the barrels, whereafter 20 months’ maturation takes place, involving lees contact with monthly battonage. The cooperages of preferences are Rousseau, Sirugue and Vicard. Very slow maturation is preferred without the extraction of excessive wood character and there is consequently an ongoing shift to larger barrels such as puncheons. The bigger barrels ensure that the wine remains fruitier, despite lees contact of up to 2 years.
Family Cellar Durif
The wine is fermented in open barrels, left on the skins for at least 3 weeks, whereafter it is pressed and left to mature in wood for 2 years. The extended skin contact ensures stable tannins and the wine is racked once only towards the end of the first year. 30% New oak is used annually with a 60/40 ratio between French and American oak. The preference is for French oak from Rousseau and Vicard and American oak from AP John and Sequin Moreau. Larger barrels such as hogsheadsand puncheons are increasingly popular to retain more fruit in the wine. Since Durif wines have a delicate, floral aroma, they are easily dominated by an excess of oak.
Landara Park, Fleurieu, South Australia
Landara Park Reserve Merlot
Prominent blackberry and violet flavours are desirable in this wine and it is therefore important that it should not be diminished by the use of wood. Depending on the particular vintage, different wood treatments may be preferred. The current availability of alternative oak products facilitates the decision as to which oak treatments should be used. The first release of this wine in 2005 was matured in 3-year-old American hogsheadsfor 15 to 18 months. As the vines become older, the wood treatment will also be adjusted. The 2006 vintage, for example, will be partially matured in 1 000 litre containers with staves and used barrels treated with the Ausvat method (see article “Recycling used wine barrels” in the March 2007 issue of WineLand). Before commencing wood maturation as soon as possible after alcoholic fermentation, the acid content is adjusted so that a pH of less than 3,5 after MLF is obtained in the barrels. The first racking occurs only after completion of MLF.
Stony Rise Wine Company, Tamar Valley, Tasmania
Holyman Chardonnay
This flagship wine is only made in quality vintages. Since a crisp Chardonnay character with a prominent citrus character is preferred, no MLF is allowed. 100% New medium toasted French oak is used for fermentation and maturation. Once the alcoholic fermentation has commenced, the juice is stirred every second day and after completion of the alcoholic fermentation, sulphur is added to the wine to prevent the onset of MLF. Battonage occurs on a weekly basis until the oak character becomes noticeable. Limited oak character is required, therefore 3 years’ dried oak from various coopers is used.
Holyman Pinot noir
As with the Chardonnay mentioned above, the wine is made only in exceptional vintages. The grapes come from vineyards with a low yield (1,5 tons per hectare) that ripen early. The oak character should not predominate, consequently a low percentage of new oak is used. After skin contact the wine is matured in 20 to 25% new oak, 20 to 25% second fill barrels and the rest in 4-year-old barrels. In all instances 3 years’ dried oak from various coopers is used. During the MLF in the barrels, the wine is stirred weekly and topped up regularly. Depending on the wine, it can remain on the MLF lees for a few months before being racked. It usually remains in the barrels for altogether 12 months.
Different cooperages are used to impart more dimenstions to the wine. Both barriques and oxheads are used for both wines. The sanitation of the barrels is extremely important and barrels are usually used for 4 cycles only.
Reference:
Anoniem. 2006. Winemaker FORUM. Using oak in flagship wines. Australian & New Zealand Grapegrower & Winemaker: July 2006: 63 - 66.
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