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A Technical Guide for Wine Producers
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WINE IN WOOD AND WOOD IN WINE
Selecting the right wood for a wine style
The use of wood in vinification is like the use of spices in food. Both components play a role in the final product, some combinations don’t work at all, while other combinations are complementary and produce a better product. Winemakers sometimes have to be prophetic in their predictions of what to expect from the final product, without being surprised by the eventual result.
As a consequence of the decisive role played by wood in the flavour and taste of wine, winemakers have to be very circumspect in the use of wood. To ensure that the desired result is obtained, the following steps may be taken:
1. The winemaker should decide which wine style is required. This decision will also be influenced by the policy of the cellar as regards wine price, target market, etcetera. Once this decision has been taken, the winemaker can decide which wood products if any have to be used for vinification, and whether it should be barrels or alternative wood products. Traditionally oak barrels are the source of wood flavours and tastes in wine, with oxygenation, wood extraction and concentration occurring in one container, which is moreover integral to the romance of wine. All the benefits of using barrels are seriously hampered, however, by the cost of barrels and limited use of space. In fact, the development of wood alternatives derived from these constraints. The alternative products are not only cheaper, they also reduce labour costs, wine losses and potential wine spoilage. The availability of different toasting levels in various wood alternatives enabled winemakers to manage the wood extraction from such products, however, despite being exposed to a wide range of products, winemakers encountered other problems. Few cooperages have the expertise or inclination to produce wood alternatives with the same dedication as barrels, the result being that several unreliable suppliers hope to serve the market on a price basis. Since it is a new technology, winemakers do not always have the expertise to use it correctly and moreover, wooden barrels still benefit from the romantic connotation.
2. Once a winemaker has decided whether to use barrels or wood alternatives, the detail specifications of the wood must be finalised. The origin of the oak, species, physical dimensions of the wood, grain density, particular cooperage, wood ageing and the toasting procedure are specifications that merit attention. All these specifications play an important role in the eventual quality or style of the wine, which is probably the most important factor to consider. It is therefore extremely important to evaluate wine sensorially on an experimental basis before finalising purchases of wood alternatives or barrels.
The reliability of the supplier is not negotiable. Only suppliers with a reputation of quality, sustainability, integrity and good client service should be considered. The establishment of a good relationship between the cellar and the cooperage is therefore essential.
Sensorial evaluation confirms desired or projected aims at the time of purchasing the wood alternatives, including the detail specifications mentioned above. The winemaker(s)’ sensorial judgment is the decisive yardstick in this regard. The truth is that each wine has different wood requirements and there is no such thing as a universal product that is suitable for all wines (Murrell, 2007).
Reference:
Murrell, J. 2007. Barrel Alternatives. Right oak for your wine style. Practical Winemaking, March/April 2007: 39 - 41.
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