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Wine grape cultivars: What's in a name?
Piet Goussard, Viticulture and Oenology Department, Stellenbosch University
Across the entire spectrum from soil to glass, cultivar names have assumed great importance throughout the world. In the modern, competitive wine world there is a growing awareness of and interest in, apart from the true identity of cultivars as indicated on wine labels, the origin and cultivation background of wine, as well as cultivation preferences and prerequisites that are desired/required to produce quality wines with specific characteristics.
When cultivar names are taken into account, the number and variety are exceptional, as reflected in, inter alia, Jancis Robinson’s Guide to Wine Grapes in which more than 800 names appear. Although many of these represent different names for the same cultivar, the number remains staggering - to the extent that it can result in confusion. The multitude of names may be ascribed to the distribution of ancient grape varieties from their areas of origin to various European regions where further cultivar selection was carried out from seedlings. Most European wine grape cultivars that are currently cultivated across the world fall into the category of old cultivars that date from pre-documentary times. Selection over thousands of years meant that in most regions cultivars were developed and cultivated that did not occur elsewhere. Much later cultivars migrated to other countries under their original names, but often also under incorrect names, while different names for the same cultivar were also used. Since pioneer hybridisation occurred by Bouschet, several controlled hybrids have achieved cultivar status (with names) and in many parts of the world a concerted effort is made to produce new hybrids annually. Moreover several cultivar names derive from national and regional vernacular and although these are not official, some have been incorporated in writing, e.g. Wine grape for Sémillon in South Africa to name a single example. In New World countries especially viticulture and oenology have been practiced for an extremely short period of time, viewed against the background of thousands of years’ cultivar evolution. Even so remarkable successes have been achieved with cultivation and production of exemplary wines from old, younger and new cultivars - even though these may have been planted under alternative or incorrect names.
During the past century Ampelography (description of the organs of the vine) was founded as one of the most important scientifically funded aids for cultivar identification and knowledge. In this regard early ampelographers, including Goethe, Viala, Vermorel and Dalmasso, have published extensively in this regard. In their wake Galet is considered the father of modern ampelography and highly regarded as an expert on grape cultivars - an honour that is also befitting Prof. Orffer relative to the South African situation. Subsequently knowledge of ampelography started to play an important role in several countries, not only with regard to trustworthy cultivar identification, but also concerning the origin, names, synonyms and characteristic traits. Thus it was often possible to confirm true cultivar identity while at the same time tracing the correct name. Modern technology (DNA analyses) offers undeniable certainty with regard to whether the name under which a cultivar is cultivated is right or wrong, and also makes it possible to determine the true areas of origin of specific cultivars. This means that confusion surrounding cultivar names in certain countries may be eliminated, but what about a cultivar that has become firmly established under the wrong name over a period of many years? Should the name be changed to the original version or is this not necessary?
The confusion and discrepancies regarding cultivar names are obvious when one looks, for example, at the numerous names related to Riesling. In response to the question whether such a phenomenon as true Riesling exists, Prof. Orffer provided comprehensive information in a review entitled: "Riesling bestaan nie, maar hoeveel Rieslings is daar?" ("Riesling does not exist, but how many Rieslings are there?"). This review (which was unfortunately not published) provides significant information about nomenclature - not only with regard to South African Rieslings, but also those cultivated in other countries. It is quite possible that Cape or SA Riesling, which was not called thus in the Van Riebeeck and Van der Stel eras, was brought to South Africa at an early stage and cultivated as "Groenblaarsteen" ("Green leaf steen"). Whoever was responsible, or when exactly Groenblaarsteen was rechristened Riesling, remains unknown. It, however, took a long time before Prof. Orffer finally ascertained in the early 1980s that SA Riesling was actually identical to the French variety Crouchen blanc. This finding was confirmed by several ampelographers and the local cultivar name is therefore wrong. There are indications that Weisser Riesling, which corresponds to the German Rhine Riesling, was also An early import to the Cape on several occasions. Its official name in Germany, however, is not Riesling or Rhine Riesling, but Weisser Riesling (White Riesling) to distinguish it from Schwarzriesling, which is an entirely different cultivar. There are other discrepancies regarding the origin of Weisser Riesling - according to Galet its origin is Roman, while Jancis Robinson says it is German. According to Prof. Orffer it is uncertain.
Looking at the German Rieslings the names are even more complicated. The most extensively cultivated Riesling is Rhein Riesling - with at least 15 recognised synonyms. Another old Riesling is Franken Riesling - also known as Silvaner. Bukettriesling is in actual fact Bukettrebe, while Mainriesling was previously used as a synonym for Rieslaner. Apart from Schwarzriesling there is also Schwarzer Riesling which in turn is a synonym for Blauer Burgunder - the French Pinot noir. The Rhine connection also occurs in other countries and regions where Riesling is cultivated, inter alia: (i) Italy - Riesling renano bianco; (ii) Soviet Union - Risling rejnski and (iii) Hungary - Rajnai Rizling. In Alsace one finds the following Rieslings (that are also cultivated elsewhere): Aromriesling, Feinriesling, Frühriesling, Augustriesling, Goldriesling, Firn Riesling, Marienriesling and Muscat Riesling.
According to Prof. Orffer Austria, Hungary, other Eastern European countries and Italy cannot lay claim to the name Riesling. Apart from the lesser known Rieslings and Rhine Riesling, one finds the widely cultivated Welschriesling with its synonyms Walschriesling, Olasz Riesling, Riesling laski and Riesling Italico. As with Rhine Riesling, it is a very old grape variety and its origin is unknown. Nobody can therefore claim with absolute certainty that Rhine Riesling is "authentic" and Welschriesling "not authentic" or vice versa, or which of the two first claimed the Riesling name. In California the name White Riesling denotes Rhine Riesling, while Emerald Riesling, a hybrid developed by Prof. Olmo, made a further contribution to the Riesling connotation. What this boils down to is that several countries and regions such as Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, Hungary, France (Alsace exclusively), California, Australia and South Africa cultivate Riesling that does not correspond to Rhine Riesling. In regions of these countries where a single type of Riesling is cultivated, it is common practice to use the generic name Riesling to denote such cultivars. Against this background of multiple Riesling names, it is a logical conclusion that one cultivar cannot exclusively claim the name Riesling.
A look at the international situation regarding cultivar names exposes even more revelations. In California Trousseau gris (a mutation of Trousseau) is still cultivated and marketed as Gray Riesling, whereas Valdiquié is called Napa Gamay. So too Gamay Beaujolais, which does not correspond to Gamay noir á Jus blanc, but is in fact a clone of Pinot noir. Similarly both Durif and Peloursin are known as Petite Sirah and moreover Syrah and Petite Sirah are considered to be different cultivars - which is not true at all. The cultivar Pinot blanc which corresponds to the French Melon blanc, but is nevertheless cultivated under the former name, is a further example. Although DNA analyses have confirmed that Alvarinho is in fact Savignan which in turn represents a clone of Traminer, it is nevertheless called Alvarinho in Portugal and Albarino in Spain. The Italian Primitivo which is cultivated in California and South Africa under the name Zinfandel actually hails from Croatia where the original name is Crljenak Kastelanski. Locally and in California the name Zinfandel persists.
According to a recent EU document, there are several instances throughout the world where the same name is used for cultivars that differ genetically from each other. In this regard countries, including South Africa, will have to take a stand whether the principle of the above-mentioned homonymic names is acceptable or not. If unacceptable and only the original name of origin is to be used, local cultivar lists will have to be amended for example: (i) Riesling/SA Riesling/Kaapse Riesling/Cape Riesling will have to lapse and only Crouchen blanc will be permitted; (ii) Muskadel/Muscadel will have to be taken off the list because it is not the same cultivar as the French Muscadelle; (iii) Zinfandel will have to be replaced by Crljenak Kastelanski and (iv) Alvarinho will have to be indicated as Traminer. A wide range of cultivars will most likely be subjected to DNA analyses in the foreseeable future, the likely outcome being that name changes will be applicable to other cultivars. On the other hand should South Africa, like the rest of the wine world, accept the principle of homonymic names, cultivars which have been established here for a very long time will not unnecessarily be subjected to name changes. The latter seems a logical approach in order not to confuse the consumer and detract from producers’ commercial interests.
It seems appropriate to conclude this review with a comment from Prof. Orffer, specifically with regard to SA Riesling: "The fact that SA Riesling has been established as a quality cultivar in the South African market for a period of more than 300 years, would make it highly irresponsible to consider a name change at this stage. If Rhine Riesling were the only Riesling in the world, it might have been a different matter, but the fact remains that numerous other Rieslings occur throughout the world for which there are often synonyms."
Sources
Bourke, C., 2004. Is Traminer Gewürz, or is it Roter or Rose, and if Bianco, what about Albarino? Goodness only knows! The Australian & New Zealand Grapegrower & Winemaker, September 2004, 19 - 24.
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